Sometimes, a forest gets saved when the right person comes along. This is what happened when the hosts purchased the estate in the sixties, only to maintain it as is. Instead of building a multi-storey hotel for city folk to sit in monotonous luxury suites, the family embraced their natural instincts. These included an untameable zest for adventure and a fierce attachment to the forest. They saved the wild oak and rhododendron forest from neglect and decay one tree at a time to make it the stunning estate it is today.
In the 80s, our hosts decided to open this pristine space to small groups of visitors. Over time, they’ve built 4 compact cottages to accommodate guests. As befits a man who chose adventures in the forest over life in combat, the cottages are filled with visual anecdotes of a life lived in the thrall of the wild.
This forest is home to precious fauna like mountain deer, jungle cats, the occasional bear or leopard, and a large variety of birds like the Eurasian jay and the Himalayan woodpecker. Oak trees that sustain mosses, lichens, mushrooms, and epiphytes dot the landscape amongst rhododendron trees that bloom in spring.
Helping to maintain the integrity of the land, all the people who call this forest their office are from around the area. They will show you the depth of their hospitality and will take you on walks around the property or for small treks beyond. They will be happy to discuss with you issues of migration and land ownership at a time when wealthy urbanites are buying out the land in large swathes for their luxury homes and locals are moving out for urban opportunities.
The owner’s goal was to protect the forest and its people, which means that the homestay allows a very small group at a time. The cottages are unobtrusive and use very little electricity.
Visitors are requested to respect the forest.
comforts
Over here, stories act as ornamentation. The hosts have displayed their collectables, antiques, books, photographs, and framed maps on every wall.
Each cottage has a spacious sit out that overlooks the garden and the forest beyond.
There are two bedrooms, a living area, and a small kitchen in each cottage. Plenty of niches around provide ample space to settle in with a book in hand.
Two cottages sit higher up, with a view of the valley below, while a large and comfortable suite sits behind the main cottage, offering a more private option.
The cottages are well spread out giving small groups complete privacy. Each cottage can accommodate a family of 3 or 4 people.
food
Delicious dal, mixed vegetable sabzi, ghee-soaked parathas stuffed with cauliflower, potatoes, and eggs, ginger tea, omelettes, steaming bowls of rice – every item on the menu is tailored for a life in the mountains and is cooked over raucous laughter and conversation in the kitchen. There is chicken curry for non-vegetarians served once a day, usually for dinner.
Chai and coffee are constants.
Food is sourced locally, but you will find no farms or orchards within the estate. Fruit trees that grow here naturally are used for tart apricot jams that go exceptionally well with hot, buttered toast.
ideal for
Interested in exploring Kumaon? This is a good place to start from before a long and fruitful trek. It is also a great rest spot after you’re done with said long and fruitful trek.
History nerds and ecology enthusiasts will have maps and books to pour over to really learn about the kingdom of Kumaon from the time of the Puranas (when Uttarakhand was known as ‘Devbhumi’, or the Abode of the Gods) through the British Raj, all the way to achieving its statehood today.
Yoga practitioners can practice and meditate on their mats on verdant lawns outside.
Bird watchers will witness a bevvy of beautiful bird species right outside their windows and during their forest trails. Wildlife can be witnessed if you’re careful and observant.
This is a safe place for a solo hike and for much needed time away from the urban landscape. We get the need to be alone sometimes.
Disclaimer: Staying here means that all the cottages are on different levels within the property. It’s also a long walk to get here. It is not ideal for people who have walking difficulties or issues with mobility. There is no easy road access either.
getting there
We’ll get it out of the way now: There is no direct access to the estate by road.
It’s a 40-minute hike up to the estate from the nearest road head through pony trails, 20 if you’re extra fit or in a hurry to see the place (we don’t blame you).
If you’re worried about carrying heavy luggage, local porters with or without their mules will be here to assist you.
things to do
Take a long walk around the estate – it’s over 100 acres, which is plenty to cover.
Read from a collection of old books that you may not find in bookstores today.
Watch the birds that flock to the garden every morning – black-headed jays, Eurasian jays, woodpeckers, and more.
Barking deer, boars, and jungle cats roam the estate and you might spot them on a lucky day.
price
The property is priced at Rs. 4,500 per person, per night and is inclusive of accommodation, all meals, tea/coffee, guided hikes within the estate and all applicable taxes.
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